Cathy Pomanti, the owner of Sugar Hill Farm, midwifed my calf into the world. Pomanti raises grass-fed organic Scottish highland cows, a shaggy breed yielding meat that's among the tastiest on the planet. On one farm visit, my fiancee saw a highlander, went quiet, and then said, "I don't want to eat them. I want to hug them." But I was hungry for a cow to call my own.
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